For Cooks

Season's Best Chef’s Table

Andrew Pern’s Season’s Best is the Glorious Grouse

Growing up on a farm near Whitby, where rough shoots were held, Andrew has been surrounded by game all of his life. Since 1996, his ‘home’ has been The Star Inn at Harome located close to some of the best game shooting in the country if not the world. His second book ‘Loose Birds and Game’ is a bible of game cookery covering the whole range of furred and feathered game, as well as wild salmon and trout, and free range goose and chicken.

However, even for someone so immersed in game, the ‘Glorious Twelfth’ marking the beginning of the (grouse) shooting season is one of the most important days of the year and the aroma of the first grouse cooking in the ovens, filling the kitchen with a distinct smell possibly from its heather-fed diet, marks the start of the season for Andrew and his chefs.

Early in the grouse season, Andrew tends to serve grouse roast and traditionally garnished served with game chips and bread sauce, as he believes this respects the main ingredient and its natural flavours, and can be improved only by the accompaniment of the odd glass of Burgundy!  Later in the season, Andrew serves roast birds with local apples, mulled brambles and sloe gin juices, and then in ‘Salmis of Grouse with Stump’ or, as with his featured recipe, as Braised Faggots of Farndale Grouse with a Bubble and Squeak Rösti, Garden-grown Redcurrant ‘Gravy’.

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